Having just received it's second Michelin star, The Vineyard at Stockcross in Berkshire is the closest restaurant to me that can boast the accolade, so had been on the menu, as it were, for some time. The Vineyard is the archetypal Michelin venue - beautiful old furniture, decor stuck in a bygone era, and old-school obsequious service. None of these features particularly appeal to me normally, which is why I tend to eschew the Michelin guide in favour of more open-minded guides, but I cannot deny the M inspectors know their food, and the Vineyard did not disappoint.
AMUSE BOUCHE - WHITE ONION ESPUMA WITH HAM HOCK BEIGNET

Quite possibly the best dish of the night for all of us - the espuma just vanished on the tongue leaving a whiff of salty-sweet onionyness, and the beignet was crammed with meltingly tender meat, the combination of the two was simply ethereal!
ANJOU SWAB (PIGEON) WITH MULLED WILD BLACKBERRIES & TREACLE

SUCKLING PIG TERRINE WITH IT'S OWN BLACK PUDDING

Fabulous chunks of meat, interspersed with slivers of creamy pate, and a little dot of black pudding nestling in the whole mosaic.
Served with a gorgeous
APRICOT CHUTNEY

Served in a dinky little kilner jar! How cute?! I loved the idea of serving small portions of accompaniment (the butter as well) on small squares of slate - very nice!
WILD VENISON, PARSNIP PUREE & PICKLED PEARS

ORGANIC CHICKEN WITH SMOKED SWEETCORN & CEP CREAM

Not sure what happened to the sweetcorn in this dish, the puree was definitely parsnip and as you can see there's a lot of other things going on on the plate! The slab at the bottom is a mini carpet of stuffing - very clever! The chicken was divine - how chicken ought to taste but so rarely does - unashamedly 'chickeny'.
BEEF FILLET + OTHERS

I've lost track of what else was going on on this plate (see my note)
DESSERT - CUCUMBER, LIME & YOGHURT WITH MANGO

Probably the second-best dish of the night, I was hunched over this little baby trying to fend off the envious spoons of my fellow diners! As I recall, the 'cucumber and lime' was the slightly jellied liquid that forms the pond, the yoghurt was the mousse on the side (with a hint of something else?) and the mango, obviously, is the gloriously yellow mound of semi-frozen light and fluffy puree. Heaven.
As a food blogger, the biggest (and indeed, only) frustration with The Vineyard had nothing to do with the food, but the menu itself is exceptionally vague (a sample listing would be 'cucumber, lime, mango yoghurt' - and a dish with a name like that could be anything). In theory, the waiters 'describe' the dish in more detail when they present it to you, but their accents are so thick (French), and their delivery so mumbled, that I struggled to understand, and my tastebuds weren't always up to scratch on working out what was what on each plate! Nonetheless, we'll definitely be going back again, the food was simply too good not to.





4 comments:
I've had similar problems with a few restaurants I've been to, in particular French ones. Perhaps they're attempting to remain mysteriously vague on their menus because the chefs are just too lazy to explain their "art" themselves and instead aim to entice their clientelle into asking the waiting staff bundles of questions. I dunno...
I've just noticed that espuma seems like a very generous portion for an amuse bouche. Is it intended for two? Also I've never seen a spherical beignet before, they're usually shaped into quenelles aren't they?
Hey Trig, the espuma was actually pretty small, maybe three little gulps? Soooo tasty though! And yeah, I've never seen a perfectly spherical beignet before either - I'm guessing they used an apple corer or similar to get the shape.
OMG, The Vineyard is soooooo going on my list of places to visit! The amuse bouche sounds insanely delicious, as does the pigeon. I adored the idea of a "carpet" of stuffing too. And I agree with you on the vague descriptions - at the Fat Duck what you read on the menu and what you got on your plate were often hard to match up (I found this particularly with the ravioli of radish) - and the witers' accents were close to indecipherable. Glad I'm not the only one with this problem!
Great resttaurant by the sound of things & great review - thanks :)
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